Jul 242012
 
 July 24, 2012  Posted by  Add comments


Updated – 11/28/13 Hobbyking has now released a new KK2.1 version of the flight controller.
Hobbyking KK2.1 Multi-rotor LCD Flight Control Board $30

My Hobbyking KK2.0 Multi-rotor LCD Flight Control Board arrived a few days back and I had it flying in under an hour. It is amazing and I can’t imagine a better option for under for $30 or one that even comes close. It includes accelerometers for self-leveling and an LCD for easy configuration. The board is great for beginners, yet performs well enough for experienced pilots to enjoy. (To show that this board isn’t just for us noobs, here is a really cool video from Team White Llama pilot, The Fokker)

My KK2.0 Build

I put this board on my clone 450 frame which previously had been setup with another board and all the necessary components. All I had to do was swap out the boards. I attached the KK2.0 with some double sided foam tape, plugged in the ESCs and receiver connectors and proceeded to do rest of the setup outside using the LCD. It was great to not be running back and forth to my laptop.

Set Up Guide

Click here to see the official setup guide from HobbyKing.

In this post, I go through the steps I followed to set up my quadcopter. This is not intended to be a guide. These steps may vary from the manufacturer’s guide and may not be correct. I am providing them for information purposes on how it worked for me. Read and follow the manufacturer’s materials to use this board.

On-Board LCD

The LCD really makes this board extra special. Everything is easily accessible and configurable from the LCD in the field. Continue reading to see pictures, slideshows and descriptions of each LCD menu item I used to set up my Quadcopter X…

Safe

At this point, the propellers were off of my quadcopter for safety reasons. Also, I did not arm the board until later. 

Safe Mode - When power is applied to the KK2.0 board, it is in Safe mode. Notice that my board shows that Self-level is OFF. Self-leveling can be controlled either by a switch on the transmitter or by the roll/pitch stick. I chose to use the roll/pitch stick. This is convenient for radios that only have four channels. I left self-level off until I after finished my PI tuning.

Sensor Test

  • Sensor Test

  • Sensor Test Details

Slide 1 - One of the first things I did when I had power to my board was select the Sensor Test menu to verify that all of  the sensors were working correctly.
Slide 2 - Fortunately, they all checked out ok!

Receiver Test

  • Receiver Test

  • Receiver Test Details

Slide 1 - I selected the Receiver Test menu to configure the KK2.0 to work with my Transmitter/Receiver.
Slide 2 - I moved the trims on my transmitter to make sure all of the channels had a value of zero.

Load Motor Layout

  • Load Motor Layout

  • Load Motor Layout Page 1

  • Load Motor Layout Page 2

  • Load Motor Layout Page 3

  • Load Motor Layout Page 4

Slide 1 - I selected the Load Motor Layout menu to chose the correct configuration for my quadcopter.
Slides 2-5 – As you can see, there are many different types of aircraft that this board supports. Though it is not highlighted in the slideshow, I chose QuadroCopter x mode from the second page of options.

Show Motor Layout

  • Show Motor Layout

  • Show Motor Layout All

  • Show Motor Layout Motor 1

  • Show Motor Layout Motor 2

  • Show Motor Layout Motor 3

  • Show Motor Layout Motor 4

  • Show Motor Layout Motor 5

Slide 1 - I selected the Show Motor Layout menu to verify my configuration.
Slide 2 – When I look at the configuration for my quad x, it first shows me a view of all four motors and the correct rotation of my props.
Slides 3-6 – The next 4 slides show me each motor on my quad individually labeled with the CW (clockwise) or CCW (counter-clockwise) rotation of my props.
Slide 7 – Since my quad has four motors, this slide shows motor 5 as Unused.

ESC Calibration with Props Off!

  • ESC Calibration

  • ESC Calibration Instructions 1

  • ESC Calibration Instructions 2

  • ESC Calibration Instructions 3

  • ESC Calibration Instructions 4

  • ESC Calibration Instructions 5

  • ESC Calibration Instructions 6

Slide 1 - I selected the ESC menu to calibrate my ESCs.
Slides 2-7 - The next 6 slides walked me through the instructions for calibrating my ESCs. I did this with the propellers off!  It works like a standard ESC calibration procedure where the ESCs are calibrated from the maximum to minimum throttle range. Per the instructions, I held down buttons 1 and 4 while calibrating and it calibrated all four of my motors at once. Nice!

I was using the version 1.1 firmware for this setup. Future versions do not include the ESC Calibration menu item, but the calibration procedure is the same as described above. There is even a two second delay after powering the board to allow time to press buttons 1 and 4.

Sensor Calibration

  • Sensor Calibration

  • Sensor Calibration Instructions

  • Sensor Calibration Wait

  • Sensor Calibration Calibrating

  • Sensor Calibration Results

  • Sensor Calibration Successful

Slide 1 - I selected the Sensor Calibration menu to calibrate my sensors.
Slide 2 - Per the instructions, I placed my quad on a level surface and pushed the 4th button to continue.
Slide 3-6 – The board waited 5 seconds before beginning, then calibrated, showed the results and said the calibration was successful.

Armed Throttle Test with Props Off!

Armed Mode - With my props still off, I moved my throttle/yaw stick down and right and the board changed to Armed. I verified that the throttle was controlling the motors correctly. The motors didn’t move when the board was armed and my throttle was all the way down, but as I gradually increased the throttle the motors began to turn and increase speed. I also moved the other sticks to see if I heard a proper response from the motors. I then disarmed the board by moving the throttle/yaw stick down and to the left. The board went back in to safe mode and I disconnected the power.

Props On

I had my props off during all the prior configuration steps. At this point, I put the propellers on the motors and went to a safe flying area. I stood at a safe distance from the quadcopter and again moved my throttle/yaw stick down and right to arm the board.

Prop Rotation

This is where I checked to make sure the propellers were rotating correctly by applying a little bit of throttle. After taking note of all the incorrect propeller rotations, I disarmed the board and disconnected the power. If a propeller was turning the wrong way, I corrected it by switching two of the motor wires.

Reversing Channels

Next, I checked that the correct motors were responding to my stick commands. Roll right should speed up the left motors, pitch forward should speed up the rear motors, etc. After taking note of all incorrect motor responses, I disarmed the board and disconnected the power. If the wrong motors were speeding up, I reversed the appropriate channel on my transmitter to correct it.

First Flight

When all props and motors were spinning and responding correctly, I moved on to a test flight. If I had it set up right, it would fly and it did, though perhaps a little rough.

PI Tuning

  • PI Editor

  • PI Editor Roll

  • PI Editor Pitch

  • PI Editor Yaw

  • PI Editor Roll Gain

  • PI Editor Change Roll Gain

Slide 1 - I selected the PI Editor menu to tune my quad.
Slide 2-4 - I tuned the RollPitch and Yaw by choosing the appropriate Axis.
Slide 5-6 - For each axis, I tuned my quadcopter by changing the P and I Gain values, but I left the P and I Limit values unchanged. Here is an excellent video that I followed to do the PI tuning for my KK2.0 board and here is a Wiki on PID controllers for more details on the concept.

Stick Scaling

  • Stick Scaling

  • Stick Scaling Details

  • Stick Scaling Change Roll

Slide 1 - I selected the Stick Scaling menu to adjust the sensitivty of my sticks.
Slide 2Roll, Pitch, Yaw and Throttle can all be selected.
Slide 3 – After choosing roll, pitch, yaw, or throttle they can be adjusted down for less sensitivity or up for more. I left everything unchanged except throttle which I adjusted down to 75 to tame my throttle a bit.

Self-Level Settings

  • Self-Level Settings

  • Self-Level Settings Details

Slide 1 – The Self-Level Settings  menu can be used to tune the self-level feature.
Slide 2 –  P and I Gains and Limits can be adjusted, but I left these settings unchanged.

To fly using the accelerometer self-level feature of the KK2.0 I toggle self-level on by moving the roll/pitch stick all the way right when arming. To toggle it off, I move the roll/pitch stick all the way left while arming.

Mode Settings

  • Mode Settings

  • Mode Settings Details

Slide 1 - I used the Mode Settings  menu is  to set  my modes.
Slide 2 - I set my modes to control self-leveling from my sticks as mentioned above, to enable the I portion of PI,  to arm my board from my stick, and to link the roll and pitch. Linking the roll and pitch means that any changes to the roll PI settings will also be made to the pitch PI settings.

Misc. Settings

  • Misc. Settings

  • Misc. Settings Details

Slide 1 - The Misc. Settings  menu can be used to set various other miscellaneous settings.
Slide 2 - I left all of these settings unchanged. With Minimum throttle set to 10, my motors do not rotate until I give my quad a little throttle. I like this, but some prefer to have their props spin slowly when armed. I may play with the Height Dampening feature to see what it does. Also, there is a way to set up a battery alarm, but it requires some soldering.

Mixer Editor

  • Mixer Editor

  • Mixer Editor Channel 1

  • Mixer Editor Channel 2

  • Mixer Editor Channel 3

  • Mixer Editor Channel 4

  • Mixer Editor Channel 5

Slide 1 - The Mixer Editor  menu can be used to create custom mixes.
Slide 2-6 This is well beyond my level of experience and I left all of these settings unchanged.

Debug

  • Debug

  • Debug Details Page 1

  • Debug Details Page 2

Slide 1 - The Debug  menu can be used to debug problems.
Slide 2-3 This is well beyond my level of experience and I left all of these settings unchanged.

Conclusion

As a guy with a short attention span, in the past I have opted for plug and play boards that didn’t require much tuning. For me, the problem with PID tuning was two fold. First, I didn’t completely understand it and still don’t. But mainly I didn’t like the idea of tuning through a GUI on a pc, then testing, then going back to the pc to make changes. It was just too much of a pain.

With the KK2.0 board, PI tuning (there isn’t a configurable D on this board) is a snap. I simply made a few changes through the on-board LCD and made a test flight, then adjusted the settings and test flew again until I was happy with the settings. By making it so easy, I was able to quickly see how the changes were effecting the quality of the flight and tune my quad. I feel like I have it pretty dialed in. It flies great.

The same is true for all of the configurable settings. They can be done in the field with a touch of a button. I love this board. At less than $30, what is there not to love?

Upgrading the KK2.0 Firmware

This post was written when the board was initially released. Since then new versions of the firmware have been released. Though it is a little more advanced and not required, a USBasp AVR can be used to easily load newer versions of the KK2.0 firmware using the LazyZero KKMulticopter Flashtool. The later versions of the firmware have much better self-leveling capability, so I always upgrade my firmware. Here are the pins to connect the USBasp to the KK2.0.

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  92 Responses to “Setting Up My HobbyKing KK2.0 Quadcopter X”

  1. Hi guys, I recently got a kk2.1 board w/ LCD. I am having a problem getting the m4 output to send a signal to the ESC. I also thought it was the ESC that was not responding. So I plugged it into m2 and the motor worked. I am not sure if I received a faulty board but I would sure like some help.

  2. First of all many thanks for an informative series of articles on building a first quadcopter.

    After a couple of initial attempts at flying my quad, crashing it and then rebuilding it I think I’m nearly there but wanted to check I was going in the right direction (no pun intended).

    When I first started flying my quad it would want to flip left over right – which I was mostly able to correct using the trim adjuster on my transmitter. But then it would want to flip back over front – which I was again mostly able to correct using the trim. Except it never seemed to remain particularly stable and I always found myself having to make a lot of adjustments to stop it drifting off where I didn’t want it to go.

    Watching all those videos where a quad just takes off and hovers left me rather jealous!

    After my major rebuild I upgraded the KK2.0 firmware from v1.2 to v1.5.

    I also incorporated some vibration decoupling into the KK2.0 mounting and went through your tuning article very carefully. If I’m honest I may well have let my initial enthusiasm get away with me and I probably had not done the PI tuning before my early flights.

    I’m currently at the point where the back-over-front and left-over-right flip has been replaced with what I would call a slow corner. So the front-left and two rear corners are lifting and the front-right is somewhat reluctant to take off. Is this a case of more trim tuning needed?

    It’s a little too windy to fly properly at the moment but I wanted to see what improvements if any I’d achieved as a result of the re-tuning exercise. I’ve so far got to the point where, with a bit of trim adjustment to take into account the “lazy corner”, the quad will leave the tarmac level and “slide” down the road. I’m convincing myself at the moment that the slide is due to the wind and that on a still day I will achieve that stable hover that I’ve seen in all the videos.

    All the motors spin up and stop together. I had previously tried to balance the ESCs but I wasn’t convinced that what I achieved matched all the descriptions I’ve seen. I have Afro ESCs on my quad and I’ve recently seen some posts on various forums saying that Afro ESCs either don’t need balancing or even shouldn’t be balanced.

    Apologies for the long comment but I’m hoping for some final recommendations/advice in preparation for that perfectly still day when I can go out and try it properly.

    • After reading your post, esc throttle cailbration is what pops into my mind as what I would do first. I have some afro ESCs but I haven’t used them yet. I would think they would require throttle calibration. With the 1.5 firmware, it should be rock stable. Good luck.

  3. Hi Britt, I can’t seem to get a straight answer about my board settings. I have looked in many forums. My board does not come with ESC settings. After the sensor calibration comes CPPM instead of ESC. How can I calibrate the ESC’s if it doesn’t appear on my little screen? I appreciate any help you can give me so I can get the Quad of the ground. Motors 2 and 4 don’t star up with 1 and 3 so it always flips. Thank you.
    Taker

  4. First i want to thank you for this helpful informations! Excellent!! :)
    And i need your help,
    I build my first “X” quad and now its trying to flip over.I used KK2 FC and Hobbyking q brain 4 in 1 ESC.i cant figure out what is the problem.
    but i didn’t calibrate kk2 sensor in a flat surface,Is it necessary to do it?
    Hope you will reply!
    Thanks!

  5. I received a KK2.0 flight board with a short lead with a small round black fitting on one end and a red connector on the oth.

    What is this for? the manual instruction make no mention of it.

    • Probably the battery alarm, but it is a pain to set up. I never have used it.

    • I got my board last week :) The black thing on the end of some wires is the battery voltage buzzer, it connects to a header on the top right of the board (you can see the header in all the pics on this page)

      To get it to work you need to solder a wire to the +ve hole on the board and connect it to the battery +ve wire. There are loads of videos on youtube showing where the wire needs to go. You dont need to do a ground wire because the board gets its ground from the ESC powering it.

  6. I got a KK2 board from Hobby King a few days ago. I put the board in a small 250 mini quad frame. I’m using a Spektrum AR6200 receiver, 12A hobbyKing ESC, T2211-2300 motors. I used you excellent guide to set the quad up. On the first flight she just tipped over to the right. I think maybe the self leveling is not working. I see on you tread here that some have used the ‘AUX’ connection witht eh flap switch on the DX6I TX’er.

    First thing I’ve noticed is that the AUX when testing the receiver shows the value ’3′. I thought it should be ‘ON’. So that could be my problem. I can’t seem to do anything with that? I sure could use some help here.

    I have a little LadyBug that flies very well. Even in the wind which is why I’ve attemped to assembly a bigger one. I also have another 450 quad with ESC’s & Motors & another KK2 on the way from China.

    Thanks for any help you can provide.

    jack

    • First I would make sure the self leveling is off. Second did you calibrate the esc’s with the board? Third make sure you use a very level surface to calibrate the sensors. Try that and see what happens. Mine first wanted to just tip over too but it was just the sensor calibration.

      • Jeff:

        I did the sensor calibration. Also calibrated the ESC’s twice. Still had the same problem. So I decided that the front right motor or ESC was not happy. So I replaced both the motor & Esc. Did the Calibate on the ESC’s again. I tried it again. Now it flips over backwards?

        This little thing is really getting to me.

        I’m thing I would like to tech the motors at different throttle settings. I would like to know that the motors are all in tune with one another.

        jack

      • I was reading all these posts and saw where someone held there quad in the handle and tried all the stick so I just tried that.

        Holding the 250 quad in my right hand at 50% throttle.
        wiggled rudder. Her tail went left & right as I would expect.

        moved the elevator down – quad went left????
        moved the elevator up – quad went right???????

        moved the ailerons right – I forget what it did
        moved the ailerons left – I forget what it did.

        So for sure I got some plugs plugged into the wrong holes!!

        Jack

        • I found I had the ailerons and elevator plugs in the wrong slots. I’ve switched them and will try to fly the mini 250 quad again.

          Thanks for your help.

          Jack

        • Tom Bale and I finally figured out why my little 250 mini quad was flipping over with out flying. I had the motors not correctly plug into m1, m2, m3, m4. I thought that it was the front right Mi motor was 1, the right left M2 was motor 2 and the front right M3 was motor 3 then the rear left M4 was motor 4. NOT Right.

          If your doing a quad in the X configuration. The front right is motor 1 in M1 then go clock wise to the front left is M2 motor 2, then the rear right is M3 motor 3, then the rear left is M4 motor 4.

          I guess the problems lots of us new guys have with the multi-motor copters is there are so many different arrangements you can make with the Hobby King KK2 board. I think most are made as quad in the X configuration.

          Lots of time we post our problems but never let the thread know what we found out.
          So there you have it.

          Jack

    • I was real sure that the porblem with my quad was that the leveling was not working. When looking at the receiver on the KK2 screen it just showed a “3″ on the ‘AUD’. The instructions say it should be ‘ON’.

      With the help of my friend in Portugal (Tom Bale) we found that my flaps & gear where not set up in my DX6I. Tom helped me set the flaps & gear then we went to the the monitor display and could then see that the values were in fact moving. I then powered down the DX6I transmitter to save the new values.

      Turned the Trainsmitter back on, pluged in the quad battery and gave it a test while holding the quad. Kept the motor speed very low but I could hear & feel the motors change speed as I tipped the quad to one side then the other. I think maybe we have solved the problem. I’ll give the baby quad a test in the morning.

      • Jasse, can you explain what You are changed in transmitter settings?
        I have the same problem – self leveling not working..

  7. I connected battery to my new KK2 board V1.2, but after connecting the motors were wiggling slowly left and right and the esc making noise. Can any body give a feed back what is wrong

  8. im sorry, but how does those slideshows work? it always stays on picture 1

  9. I was going to return my Aerosky H100 to Xheli because I could never get the motors (ESC’S) calibrated. After I atempted that Calibration the motors would not run. I decided the H100 was a DUD.

    Would the KK2 be a good replacement board for the H100′s board?

    Jesse

  10. Hi. I used this very good instructions to tune up my x quad. It’s mounted with a KK2 v1.5
    When all finished, I tested the motors by holding the quad , with props on ( not recommended at all !!) and tested the command. I note that while rolling left, my front left motors (motor nber 2) revs up correctly but then do not come back to idle revs like the other motor (motor nber 3) . It keeps on reving a bit high and continues to roll the quad to the left. The only way to make this motor come back to normal rev is to roll right with the stick and come back to neutral . …
    Any ideas ? I already went 2 or 3 times through the ESC calibration…

    • Did you make sure to have the quad level when you calibrated the sensors? Mine was doing something similar and I redid the sensor calibration and that fixed it.

  11. anybody know how to solve sensor “not ok” in kk2.0?

  12. I aquired a kk2 board that lights up but blank screen.Can you give me some advice on fixing the problem or do i have a dud?

  13. Great write up! You mention the lack of ESC calibration on the new version of the KK board. I was setting mine up today and noticed it wasn’t there also. It sounds like you’re saying you can still perform ESC calibration via the LCD even without it being in the menu? Do you just follow the normal procedures? (i.e.: board off, thro @ max, hold down buttons 1&4, connect power, wait for tones, thro @ min, wait for tones, release buttons 1&4)

    • That is correct. Make sure props are off.

      • I just recently received mine too and the programming card works a little differently from the plush programming card. So, I decided to try them with the factory settings and so far they seem to work OK. I may give the programming card a try at some point, but for now, I am going to see if the factory settings will work.

  14. Fascinating comments. I am wondering if anyone knows how to fit one of these super gizmos to an Idea fly Ifly 4? I’m stumped trying to get power connected. ANY help gratefully received. Thanks, Stew

    • Connector M1 must have power on, otherwise the KK2 will have no power. I only found this after trying to drive 4 servos from the board. I use a quad ESC, which had the power on the M3 plug only, so I had to move the red wire to the M1 plug. Hope this helps.

  15. Britt – I wanted to say a big thank you for your sound advice of ‘looking at the bigger picture’ Believe it or not the KK2.0 was fitted the wrong way round (ie180 – not sure how that manifested in the problems I was getting.) I now have a very stable micro quad. Plenty of positives came out of this . I have learnt so much about the KK2.0, quads and my transmitter. I am now going to build bigger multi rotor – following much of the advice found on this excellent site.

    • This flipping when the board if 180 degrees out is caused by the sensors getting mixed feelings when they try to correct for the wrong behavior of the quad or hex or whatever configuration your flying

    • Frans is right but to put it more exactly, these boards stabilize by *counteracting* drift and roll forces by speeding up or slowing down certain of the motors to create opposing force in the whole craft. Let’s say a wind gust causes the craft to roll backward – in this case, the gyros on the KK board will sense that roll, and cause the rear motors to speed up and the front motors to slow, tilting the whole craft forward to counter that rearward roll. NOW, let’s say you flip the board so that the rear of it is now toward the front, and the front of the board is toward the rear. What happens when a gust forces a rearward roll? The same gyro sensor that told the machine to correct that roll is now BACKWARD, and instead of sending the proper, forward correcting signal, it’s now going to send a reinforcing REARWARD correcting signal. The motors begin to roll the craft in the wrong direction, and the gyro senses this roll, and feeds yet MORE signal into the wrong direction of roll. Where the proper setup is a canceling feedback, the reversed setup is a reinforcing feedback – kind of like a microphone too close to its PA speaker. Just a tiny detected roll signal becomes amplified dramatically and before you can even think, she’s in a full power roll. This works the same way for all three gyro sensors and also the accelerometer sensors. You HAVE to mount the board in the direction that the creators intended, just as you have to make sure the props are of the right kind (CW or CCW) and spinning in the right direction. I had a similar problem with my newly built mini-quad. Oops wrong spin direction on one of the motors… Impatience got the best of me and I was careless. Some of the motors went WOT and she hit the floor and blew bits of propeller everywhere – 2600kv spinning 5×3 three bladers – got a cut on my leg and a piece hit my cheek too. I’m not super scared of big quads because the large, slow props don’t do as much damage, but wow the high kv small props are SCARY. That mini is a FUN machine but hell if I want to feel her sting!

      If you have the courage for it, you can test your craft by VERY tightly holding onto the underside while applying minimal throttle. You’ll know right away that something is WAY wrong by how it tries to twist out of your grip when it should be simply trying to hover. It’s also a great way to be sure all your axes are correct, and your trim is at least reasonably good. An out of trim craft may start out feeling very tame, but will gradually pull stronger and stronger into one particular direction. Simply adjust trim while holding onto her under MINIMAL power, and when she’s just pulling straight upward, you’ve got decent trim and you won’t spend your first flight fighting bad trim problems on top of everything else.

      Rick NR417

      • That’s a very extensive explanation and totally correct. I was maybe a little bit to short in explaining why the quad was flipping. I had the same experience on a much bigger octocopter with 8 hughes 10 inch props and that is scary. It blew 3 props to pieces and you do not want to be around breaking / flying carbon fiber!
        To test the correct behavior of my hex and other copters I have build a test rig that holds the copter until I am sure everything is fine.

        Frans

  16. The ESC’s appear to be making the right noise when I calibrate them – the rotors are correct and the motors are turning the right way. Turning the P gain up makes no difference unfortunately. I do agree I thing it is so simple that I just cannot see it. This only happened when I upgraded to v1.5 – have tried going back to 1.2 but no luck. I have an esc calibration card on order to check each esc separably. I also got two more KK2.0 for $18 each for some bigger quads I hope to build – after sorting this one out.

  17. Hi Britt – You helped me out a couple of weeks ago and I had been flying my micro quad with the KK2.0 v1.2 quite. I decided to upgrade to v1.5 to get better self leveling and stability. Well after a few problems I did a default reset and set everything up again. Now all it wants to do is flip over. I have it on a string test set up to avoid damage but cannot see what is wrong. I have listed my setting here. It appears that it flips forward which could be the elevator – but i do not know which channel to change. Any ideas would be gratefully received. Richard

    Roll
    Pgain 65
    Plimit 20
    Igain 20
    Ilimit 10

    Pitch
    65
    20
    20
    10

    Yaw
    50
    20
    30
    10

    Stick Scaling

    Roll 30
    Pitch 30
    Yaw 50
    Throttle 90

    Ch.1
    Throttle 100
    Aileron -71
    Rudder 100
    offset 0
    Ch.2
    100
    71
    71
    -100
    0
    Ch.3
    100
    71
    -71
    100
    0
    Ch.4
    100
    -71
    -71
    -100
    0

    • I would tend to look bigger picture and look for something like a problem with an ESC not being throttle calibrated, or a prop rotating the wrong way, or a radio channel needing to be reversed. Starting with the defaults, if everything is set up correctly, I wouldn’t expect such strange behavior. Although, I have had quads that I had to raise the PGain fairly high, with self level off, before they became stable. Usually when I have a problem like you are describing it is something simple I overlooked, or a bad connection, or a failed component, like and ESC.

  18. Many thanks for a great tutorial. I am really new to this. I have not yet received my KK2 board but i would like to know what the meaning of PI editor .
    Tanks !!!

  19. Many thanks for a great tutorial. I am really new to this. I have not yet received my KK2 board but i would like to know what the meaning of PI editor .
    Tanks !!!

  20. Hey Britt,boy i really apprecieate all the help.I don’t know what i did.I fired it up this morning and lt left the ground and flew as pretty as can be.It flies better than my little lady bird quad.I wish i knew what was wrong that made it do flip flops.Maybe it was the prayer i gave it last knight.God must look over rc’ers.Thank you and God Bless.

  21. Do you know of anyone i could pay to setup my quad?I have tried everything i could think of.I even replaced the hobbywing quattro 20amp 4 in 1 esc with 4 separate hobbymate 20amp esc;s,replaced the blue wonder 1200Kv motors with 4 hobbymate 1800Kv motors.I had a kk ver. 5.5 and could not get it to fly so i got the KK2 led,same problems.I am using a 2200Mah 30c lipo and a Fly Sky 2.4Ghz 6 channel radio.Everything is brand new.I am about ready to fly it without a radio like a frisby right out the back door.I got enough parts to build 2 quads and still i’m grounded.I calibrated the esc’s and the motor layout is setup as described in the motor layout.

    • What happens when you try to fly it?

      • it flips over thats why i replaced the motors i bent a shaft on one motor.

        • All the motors are spinning in the correct direction and have the appropriate cw or ccw props? Do the correct motors speed up or slow down when moving the aileron and elevator stick with a little bit of throttle?

          • yes,m1,m3 cw m2,m4 ccw.the motors do speed up and down with stick movement.It seems like m1,m2 run faster than the others and most of the time some motors dont turn at all unless half or full throttle.I have tried RC groups,rc universe and others and have had no luck at all.I am a noobie with quads and even own a lady bird quad which flies extremly well.I do fly rc planes and helis for years.I am experienced with those,this thing is driving me crazy,it’s got to be something easy,everything is brand new.

  22. Great information, however . . .
    I had low batteries and my turnigy 9X decided to stop communicating with the KK2.0 Quad I made, well then it just fell to Earth. The chip #U2 just fell off the board from impact. I have available to me automated surface mount soldering equipment but I can’t find out which part U2 is. Can anyone post a response with the part numbering so I can see if I might order one from someplace?

    Thanks
    Chris

  23. I am able to arm it – I have also checked the end points – all are set 100%. The Rx test shows all at ’0′ throttle at idle. Strange this is it fly’s quite well as far as I can tell on the short bursts I have tried – if a bit erratic which I put down to pilot error.

    • It is possible to set up on an AUX channel and toggle it on and off that way. Sounds like it would be worth a try. I have never done it. Let me know if you get it wroking!

      • Unfortunately I do not have a spare lead – I had the same idea and even went looking on some of my fixed wing but no ‘male to male servo leads’. I think I will have to pick some up soon. Its just so frustrating. I have done as you suggested and posted on the rcgroups forum.

      • I activated the auto levelling on the board by setting it to AUX and than using the FLAP switch on my DX6I . I set the FLAP NORMAL value in the ADJUST LIST to 0 for NORM and 100 for LAND. Works like a charm. Should work with other Transmitter / receiver combinations to if you use a switchable channel.

      • Yes, that is exactly what the “Aux” mode setting is for. On most transmitters, like Spektrum for example, have a gear switch . So its just a matter of connecting the gear channel on your receiver to the aux input on the KK2 and then the gear switch will toggle self leveling. If male-male servo cables are not available, you can simply just get a single piece of wire and solder one end to the KK2′s aux signal pin (pin facing the inside of board) to your receivers Gear signal pin and it will work fine. The negative and positive pins are redundant and not needed. Best of luck!

  24. Many thanks for a great tutorial. I am really new to this – first flight today – all appears to be working well although a bit erratic. Could you explain in detail to a newbe how to turn on self levelling.

    Richard

    • Hold the aileron/elevator stick all the way to the right when you arm the board to go into self-level mode. Hold it to the left when arming to turn it off.

      • Thanks for your reply. When you say ‘arm’ I take it you mean plug in the battery (yes I am that new to this). Also do I have to fit an extra led to the aux channel. Richard

        • The board is armed by holding the throttle/yaw stick all the way down and to the right and disarmed by the holding it all the way down and to the left.

          Nothing has to be connected to aux to do it this way.

          • Thanks for your reply Britt. I still cannot switch the self level on by following the above instructions. I have set the self leveling to ‘stick’ in the menu but still no luck. Is there another setting that is effecting this?
            KK2 v1.2
            Spektrum DX61

            • Maybe the end points on your radio aren’t wide enough to activate the self-level. But, you are able to arm it it, right? Have you re-checked your settings in the receiver test menu? You may want to ask the question on this rcgroups thread:

              http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1675613

              • You must move the right stick at the same time as you are arming the motors with your left stick. You cannot change modes after the motors/board have been armed. It can only be done as you are arming/disarming the motors simultaneously with the right stick using the same movents to arm the motors. So essentially both sticks must simultaneously move down and to the right which will arm the motors and turn on self leveling. Then you would do the exact opposite to disarm the motors/board and turn off self leveling so you would move the two sticks at the same time down and to the left. Best of luck!

  25. hello there. i had seing your page a 1000 time trying to figure out how to resolve the problem i have with my QUAD X. the motors start spining in diferent percent of speed of the throttle stick. first M1, at 20% start M2, at 30% start M3 and M4 do it at 50%. i already did ESC calibrations, changed de PI gain, but nothing change. i have de kk2 with LCD and the ESC are HK red bricks 30 amp and my transmitter is a Spectrum DX6i. so can you give me options about what i can do, change or throw away. ill apreciate your help.
    santana baires
    hope you understand my english.

  26. Great information! Thank you for the write-up! My quadcopter setup information is below, FYI:

    kk2.0 board, 2200mah 3 cell lipo, 1200kv motors, 8×4.5 props, turnigy plush 18A esc’s, turnigy 9x transmitter, 450mm quadcopter frame (red and white from Hobbyking)

    190 for aileron and elevator P
    175 limit for aileron and elevator P
    0 for aileron and elevator i

    Stick scaling:
    8 for elevator and aileron
    70% for throttle

    I just got this quad together – it is my first quad and I have been flying it in a 20′ by 20′ room with only a few rough landings. Next step is to get the gopro on the front and figure out self leveling

  27. Have you found what is Height Dampening?

  28. I just completed my Quad build and I was going through the menu on the KK2. By accident I pulled the lead from ESC to the board. This stopped the power to the board. When I plugged it back in the menu was gone. Is there a way to get it back or did I wipe the board clean?
    Thanks
    George

  29. Great article, but the images are not visible, can you resolve, thanks!!!

  30. Should all four motors be spinning in the same direction, and just have the appropriate CCW or CW prop on? Or does it work by having each motor spin as shown on the LCD, and attaching either a CW or CCW prop on each? I’m confused with this part of the build process. I am making pretty much an identical Quad to you

    • If it is a Quad X the front left and back right spin CW and use a CW props, the front right and back left spin CCW and use a CCW props. They spin just like on the lcd. To reverse the direction a motor is spinning, just switch any two motor wires.

  31. Hi do you know how to reverse the gyro on this board? mine quad is flipping over. Good Guide:)

    • Are your motors spinning in the proper direction? If not, you can switch two of the three motor wires to reverse the direction they spin. If the wrong motors spin to control pitch, roll or yaw, you should be able to reverse that on your transmitter.

  32. Thanks for putting together a clear explanation of the board settings. Just finished my first build yesterday and your review and excellent photos help me a great deal!!

  33. Very informative and matter of fact review / observation. Thanks for sharing. I don’t have the new board but at this price point it’s on the way.

  34. Thank-you, Very helpful I am a beginer to Quads. Was wanting to know more on testing the rotation of motors during testing. Think I’ve got pitch and roll but what happens during R and L yaw, what motors should speed up?

    • Glad it helped. On the yaw, it is controlled by opposite front and back motors. I am not even sure which ones. I usually set everything up and hover the copter. Then, if the yaw is wrong I reverse that channel on my tx/rx.

  35. Awesome info, especially the pictures. Still figuring things out, but this was extremely helpful!!!

  36. Excellent write up. My buddy and I also found PID tuning a pain in the ass, and prefer this LCD board over the KK3.0 board from HK. Being first time quadflyers and builders, we got his quad flying in an afternoon after he had built it. We configured and tuned his quad in a few hours, and now it’s my turn to get my quad in the air.

    -Matt

    • Glad to hear it worked for y’all. The little LCD doesn’t weigh much. I think LCDs may start to be a standard feature soon. It makes things so much easier.

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